Amalfi
The magical Piazza Duomo in Amalfi
https://www.instagram.com/amalficoast_italy/
The heart of the coast, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997.
Amalfi dates back to the 4th century AD, when Roman refugees settled here. It reached its apex in 839 AD, when it declared its independence from the Byzantine Duchy of Naples, and became the first Maritime Republic in Italy. For centuries it was the only link between Europe and the whole of the Byzantine Levant. The first code of maritime laws, the Amalfian Laws, were compiled here, and remained in force until the 16th century. Amalfi also pioneered the use of the compass, and circulated its own currency, the "tarì". Amalfi's unique charm has always attracted artists, writers, painters, directors, and even one of the twelve apostles, saint Andrew, who has a 10th century cathedral dedicated to his honour, where his relics are housed in the crypt. Amalfi is enclosed by a natural amphitheatre where the Canneto river runs through the lush Valle Delle Mulini: water-powered paper mills transformed rags into precious paper. A 13th century paper mill now houses a fascinating paper museum.
Amalfi: it's located 16 km away from Positano
Piazza Flavio Gioia
Piazza Flavio Gioia is considered the entrance door of Amalfi, as it is the first that tourists encounter when arriving in the city. A short distance you reach the heart of the historic center in Piazza Duomo.
In the center of Piazza Flavio Gioia you can see the monument to the fellow citizen to whom it is dedicated, which according to tradition invented the compass in the fourteenth century giving a further boost to the seafaring power for which Amalfi was famous in medieval times. The statue is the work of Alfonso Balzico and is dated 1892. The Piazza is also the terminus of buses that arrive from the rest of Italy, while a few steps away you reach the port. Staying close to the coast, you can reach the interesting Museum of the Compass and the Duchy of the Sea, a few steps away, located in the ancient arsenal.
The best ways to travel from Positano to Amalfi are by ferry or by SITA bus https://www.sitabus.it/
⛴️ By Ferry (Best Option)Taking a ferry is the most scenic, comfortable, and fastest way to travel between the two towns during the tourist season.Departure Point: Positano Port (located at the bottom of the town at Spiaggia Grande).Arrival Point: Amalfi Port (Marina Coppola).Travel Time: 20 to 25 minutes.Availability: Ferries operate frequently from April to October. You can check schedules and book tickets directly on booking platforms like Traghetti https://www.positanojet.it/
Tip: Sea travel avoids all coastal traffic jams and offers incredible views of the cliffs
🚌 By SITA Bus (Budget Option)
The public bus is affordable and runs year-round, though it can get highly crowded during peak hours.
Departure Point: The SITA bus stop is located directly in front of the Bar Internazionale in the Chiesa Nuova area at the top of Positano. [1]
Arrival Point: Amalfi Piazza Flavio Gioia (the main bus terminal by the water).
Travel Time: 40 to 50 minutes (highly dependent on road traffic).
Tickets: You must buy tickets before boarding at local tobacco shops (Tabacchi) or via the Unico Campania App.https://www.unicocampania.it/ Drivers do not sell tickets on the bus.
Parking in Amalfi and Atrani https://sistema-amalfi.it/pagina.asp?a=1575
Luna Rossa Parking is the main parking facility in Amalfi, entirely carved into the rock and located at Via Pantaleone Comite, 35. It is connected to the historic center of Amalfi and to Atrani via a convenient pedestrian tunnel.
ℹ️ Main Information and Restrictions
Hours: Open 24/7 every day.
Capacity: 170 spaces for cars and 30 for motorbikes/scooters.
Prohibitions: Access forbidden for LPG or methane vehicles and vehicles over 2 meters high.
Contacts: Landline +39 089 873518
Amalfi City Guide
Amalfi’s seafront is the main transport hub of the coast. The bus station, ferry pier, and a parking lot (€5 per hour; if full, you can park in the large Lunarossa garage, built into the hillside just past the town, before Atrani) are located right next to each other. They are overlooked by a statue of Flavio Gioia, a local and the alleged inventor of the magnetic compass. The Amalfi tourist information office is located just ahead on the main road, right before the post office and facing the beach. Before entering the town, notice the colorful tiles above Porta della Marina, which depict the commercial dominance of the Maritime Republic of Amalfi. On the left, along the busy road, is a series of arches indicating the long, narrow vaulted halls of the arsenal, where ships were built in the 11th century. One of these now houses the lovely Arsenal Museum. [1, 2, 3]
Heading deeper into town, you will quickly reach Piazza Duomo, the main square, featuring the statue of Saint Andrew with flowing spring water, and the Cathedral, the most important monument in the city. The further you move away from the sea, the more traditional Amalfi appears. The Paper Museum is a 10-minute walk along Via Lorenzo d'Amalfi, the main street. From here, the road narrows, and you can take a path leading to the shaded Valle dei Mulini (Valley of the Mills), filled with the ruins of paper mills that testify to the prosperity of this once-thriving industry. The ruined castle perched on the rocky ridge above Amalfi is the Torre dello Ziro, an excellent viewpoint for adventurous hikers.
HELPFUL HINTS
Don't Get stranded: Be warned -the last bus back to Positano or Sorrento leaves as early as 20:00 ( in Oct-March,but likely ,somewhat later in other months:June -July at 22:00.Aug at 23:00,April -May and Sept at 21:00 -confirm times locallly ).Especially in summer,that last bus out may be full,leaving your only option a euro 100 - 150 taxi ride
ℹ️ Tourist Information (TI)The Tourist Information office is situated roughly 100 meters away from the ferry pier and bus hub. It sits directly adjacent to the local post office, facing the sea on the left-hand side. Paid public restrooms are accessible inside the same interior courtyard.Address: Corso delle Repubbliche Marinare 27Phone: +39 089 871 107Standard Opening Hours:Monday to Friday: 9:00 AM – 1:00 PM and 2:30 PM – 5:30 PMSaturday: 9:00 AM – 1:00 PMSunday: Closed (Note: Operating hours are reduced during the low winter season) https://authenticamalficoast.it/en/i-tours/
🛅 Luggage Storage
You can safely store your luggage for €5 at the Divina Costiera travel agency. It is located right on the seafront square, directly facing the bus parking lot.
Opening Hours: Daily from 8:00 AM – 1:00 PM and 2:00 PM – 7:00 PM.
Seasonal Closure: Closed from mid-November through March.
Phone: +39 089 872 467
🍽️ Eating in Amalfi Town
⏱️ Grabbing a Quick Lunch & Groceries
Pizza Express: Located a 5-minute walk up the main drag (past the first archway on the right). It offers honest, budget-friendly pizzas, calzones, and heated grab-and-go sandwiches ranging from €4 to €6.Hours: Monday to Saturday, 9:00 AM – 9:00 PM (Closed Sunday).
Address: Via Capuano 46.
Local Supermarkets: Perfect for picnic supplies. There is a small supermarket facing Piazza dei Dogi, and a larger Decò supermarket tucked up an alleyway to the right near building #34.Address: Via Dei Curiali.
Note: Both supermarkets close for a mid-afternoon break and remain closed all day Sunday.
🍕 Where to Dine on a Budget
Da Maria (Restaurant & Pizzeria): Run by the Pisacane family since 1968, this local favorite sits just a few steps from the Duomo. It serves traditional seafood classics and excellent pizzas with simplicity and passion.Our Suggestion: Spaghetti with clams and anchovies.
Prices: €12 to €30 per dish.
Address: Trattoria Da Maria — Via Lorenzo D'Amalfi, 14.http://www.amalfitrattoriadamaria.com/
Cuoppo d’Amalfi: A tiny, incredibly popular street-food spot tucked away inside a historic church's backstreets. It is famous for serving steaming paper cones filled with crispy, battered, fresh-fried seafood. While there are a few outdoor seats, it is usually crowded, making it the perfect grab-and-go snack as you walk through town.Our Suggestion: Cones of calamari and shrimp, mixed seafood, or mixed vegetables.
Prices: €5 to €12 per cone.
Address: Via Supportico dei Ferrari, 12.https://www.facebook.com/cuoppo.damalfi/
☕ Historic Cafés & Pastry Shops
Pasticceria Pansa (Since 1830): A beautifully preserved, freshly marbled and mirrored historical café located right on Piazza del Duomo. Black-bow-tied waiters serve a quintessential Italian breakfast featuring full-bodied espresso and frothy cappuccinos.Our Suggestion: The coda di aragosta con crema di limone (a crisp, flaky, lobster-tail-shaped pastry filled with rich, light lemon custard cream).
Prices: Cornetti from €1, specialized pastries from €4.50.
Hours: Open daily from 7:30 AM to 1:00 AM (Closed early January to early February for a winter break).
Website: Pasticceria Pansa. https://www.pasticceriapansa.it/
Pasticceria Da Leone: A small, delightful bakery and café in the center of town that would be easy to miss if not for the beautiful cakes displayed in its window and the rich aroma of coffee.Our Suggestion: Torta caprese, local artisanal pastries, or a refreshing fruit granita.
Prices: €2 to €7 per item.
Address: Pasticceria Leone — Via Lorenzo D'Amalfi, 47.
🗺️ Near the Main Square: Piazza dei Dogi
To escape the thickest tourist crowds of Piazza Duomo, walk straight ahead from the cathedral stairs, pass through the little covered lane, and hook right at the fork. You will pop out into the atmospheric Piazza dei Dogi, which retains a slightly quieter, more neighborly feel.
Bar la Piazzetta: Offers very reasonable prices for drinks and light bites at tables set right in the middle of the square.
La Taverna di Masaniello: Tucked into the corner of the square leading down toward the port, this spot is slightly pricier but delivers highly rated, authentic food.
Cuoppo d'Amalfi: Located right on the right-hand side as you enter the square, making it easy to grab your seafood cone here.
⛪ What to Visit: The Duomo of Amalfi
The Amalfi Cathedral (Duomo di Amalfi) is located right in the heart of the city, just a few meters away from Piazza Municipio. It stands as one of the most prominent squares in the town and is a top destination for travelers worldwide.
Dating back to the 9th century, this Roman Catholic structure dominates Piazza del Duomo and is dedicated to Saint Andrew the Apostle. It features a predominantly Arab-Norman Romanesque architectural style but has been remodeled multiple times over the centuries, blending Romanesque, Byzantine, Gothic, and Baroque elements. The grand cathedral complex encompasses the adjacent 9th-century Basilica of the Crucifix. From the basilica, a flight of stairs leads down into the Crypt of Saint Andrew
The newer cathedral was built right next to the older basilica, which itself was constructed over the ruins of an ancient temple. Historical accounts state that the holy relics of Saint Andrew were brought to Amalfi from Constantinople in 1206 during the Fourth Crusade by Cardinal Pietro da Capua. The crypt was completed in 1208 to house the relics, and legend has it that holy manna later began to miraculously flow from the saint's bones.
🏛️ Inside the Cathedral Complex
The Liturgical Area: Features a 13th-century wooden crucifix hanging prominently above.
The Mother-of-Pearl Crucifix: Brought directly from the Holy Land, this unique piece is located to the right of the back door.
The High Altar: Positioned in the central nave, the altar is crafted from the sarcophagus of Archbishop Pietro Capuano (who died in 1214). Above it hangs a painting by Andrea dell'Asta depicting the Martyrdom of Saint Andrew.
The Coffered Ceiling: Dating back to 1702, the ornate ceiling showcases magnificent 1710 artworks by Andrea dell'Asta, including the Flagellation, the Crucifixion of the Apostle, and the Miracle of the Manna.
Ancient Architecture: The triumphal arch is supported by two massive Egyptian granite columns. You will also find two twisted columns and two pulpits that once belonged to a 12th-century ambo. One of the main pillars conceals a hidden column, offering a rare glimpse into the original Romanesque structure.
The Basilica of the Crucifix: The oldest standing cathedral structure in the city, it now serves as the Diocesan Museum of Sacred
📐 The External Splendor & The Cloister
The Main Façade: Reconstructed in 1891 following the collapse of the original structure. It is meticulously crafted from striped marble and stone, featuring open arches and intricate tracery rarely seen in Italian sacred architecture.
The Tympanum Mosaics: Depicting "The Triumph of Christ," these mosaics were designed by Domenico Morelli. The original sketches are still preserved inside the Town Hall.
The Grand Staircase: A monumental flight of 62 wide, steep stone steps leads up to the entrance.
The Bronze Doors: Cast in Constantinople before 1066 and signed by Simeon of Syria, these are the oldest post-Roman bronze doors in Italy.
The Bell Tower: Begun in 1180 and taking over a century to finish, this Romanesque bell tower is uniquely set off-center. Its structure features four small towers built in an Arabic architectural style, adorned with interlaced arches and covered in vibrant majolica tiles. In times of war, the tower served as a defensive lookout.
The Cloister of Paradise (Chiostro del Paradiso): A stunning Moorish-style open garden courtyard lined with elegant white double columns, pointed arches, and ancient sculptures.
🕒 Practical Visitor Information
Entrance Fees: Admission to the primary Cathedral area is free during active religious services. However, exploring the full monumental sightseeing complex—which grants access to the Cloister of Paradise, the Diocesan Museum, and the Crypt—requires a ticket costing roughly €3 to €4.
Opening Hours:March to June: 9:00 AM – 6:45 PM
July to September: 9:00 AM – 7:45 PM
October to February: 10:00 AM – 1:00 PM and 2:30 PM – 4:30 PM -Dress Code: Appropriate modest clothing is strictly required to enter. Shoulders and knees must remain covered out of respect for the place of worship
Rione Vagliendola
Rione Vagliendola is one of the oldest neighbourhoods of the town and one of the most famous among tourists.
You will be able to enjoy some of the true lifestyle of Amalfi: alleys, little shops, traditional trades and crafts: if you are looking for the truest heart of the town, Rione Vagliendola should definitely be on your to-see list.
After walking through the rione Vagliendola, you will end up at the old Arsenal, the true hearth of the ancient Republic of Amalfi.
Emerald Grotto: between Amalfi and Conca dei Marini
The Grotta of Smeraldo known as well with the name of "Emerald Cave" was named after the characteristic green light inside the cave. It is caused by natural sunlight from outside which enters the cave through an underground passage, which connects the salt water lake in the huge chamber with the sea outside. The water filters the sunlight and only green wave lengths reach the cave. It's really weird that the light is green while mostly the water becomes blue as for the nearby Grotta Azzura (Blue Grotto) on Capri. We suppose it is the orientation of the cave, the cave is located at the southern coast of the peninsula Amalfi coast.
In order to reach the grotto there is a small parking along the coast road, a wide staircase going down to the sea and furthermore there is also an elevator. After paying the ticket of 5€, visitors enter the cave through an artificial tunnel. Inside there is a jetty with numerous wooden boats. The boat ride is the actual tour, so after a short look around you may enter the next boat and enjoy the calm gliding of the motorless boat.
The cave consists only of a single huge chamber. The lake inside is 45m by 32m big and the chamber is 24m high, above the sea level. There are some speleothems, as this is actually a karst cave. The cave was formed above the sea level, at a time when the sea was much deeper. Later the sea rose and flooded the entrance, or better the land went down, which is caused by the volcanic activities in the area. Some stalagmites on the floor were flooded.
The tour is not very expensive but the cave is very small and the whole visit takes only half an hour including stairs, cave, and boat ride. It is also essential to visit it at the right time. August is generally bad, because of the huge number of visitors, and we guess it's annoying to wait a long time for a rather abbreviated tour.
"Here is some useful information for your visit to the Emerald Grotto:
Hours: Open every day from 10:00 AM to 4:00 PM.
Entrance Fee: €7 per person (cash/card on-site).
How to get there: You can take a taxi-boat from Amalfi port (about €10-€12 return ticket) or go by land via the SITA bus/car and take the panoramic lift down.
Note: Please check the weather, as the cave closes if the sea is too rough."
Amalfi Paper Museum
Among the first towns where it was discovered in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries the existence of the paper, if you want to take for granted the information contained in notarial deeds discussing of the existence of paper products, while not specifying whether these were imported from other places and traded in the above mentioned places, there were the territories of the Maritime Republics: Amalfi, Pisa, Genoa and Venice who had warehouses both in Syria, both on the coast of Palestine, where they were precisely located the major centers for the production of paper.
These republics also had intense trade relations with the East and they could learn from the Eastern art of making paper without too much difficulty, or it is possible that on board the galleys, which in medieval times shuttled between our coasts and the Holy Land to transport crusaders and merchandises, they are embarked "Magisters in art cartarum" which as skilled labor have introduced this type of work.
Amalfi is the oldest of the Maritime Republics, as early as the ninth century had its warehouses in Palermo and Messina and Syracuse, where the Amalfitana is still present in local place names. Age-old remains the question on the primacy of paper in Italy and then in Europe and in contention are mainly Amalfi and Fabriano.
The "Foundation Paper Museum" has always worked to spread, disclose and document what concerns the art of making handmade paper of Amalfi. All this is possible thanks to the work of its founder: Nicola Milano. He was forced to close the paper mill because it was impossible to continue to support the high costs resulting mainly from the lack of transport to link road. The last was closed in 1969 and was donated to the nascent Foundation, which he strongly desired and commissioned in November 1971, which was supposed to manage the big idea: the "Paper Museum".
Idea that through many problems and vicissitudes came today to be a concrete and interesting reality aimed at preservation of historical heritage and the recovery of ancient arts such as the manufacture of handmade paper.
"Here is the information for the Amalfi Paper Museum (Museo della Carta):
Opening hours: Daily from 10:00 AM to 7:00 PM (from March to November).
Standard Ticket (Self-guided): €4.50 for adults, €3.00 for children under 12.
Ticket + Guided Tour (Recommended): €7.00 for adults, €6.00 for children.
Note: The guided tour is highly recommended because it is available in English and includes a live demonstration where you can make your own handmade sheet of Amalfi paper!"
contacts
Via delle Cartiere, 23
84011 Amalfi (Sa)
+39 0898304561
Fax +39 089.872235
https://www.museodellacarta.it/
Amalfi is the starting point for several fine hikes
Hike # 1:Pontone
This loop trail leads up the valley past paper -mill ruins,ending in the tiny town of Pontone;you can lunch there,and headback down to the town of Amalfi ( allow 3 hours total).Bring a good map,since it's easy to veer off the main route .Start your hike by following the main road ( Via Lorenzo d'Amalfi)away from the sea.After the Paper Museum jog right,then left to join the trail,wich runs through the shaded woods along a babbling stream.Heed the signs that warn people to stay away from the ruins of paper mills ( no matter how tempting they look),since many are ready to collapse on unwary hikers.Continue up to Pontone,where Trattoria l'Antico Borgo offers wonderful cuisine and great view( Via Noce 4,tel.+39 089 871 469).After lunch,return to Amalfi via a steep stairway.If you're feeling ambitious,before you head back to Amalfi,add a one -hour detour ( 30 minutes each way) to visit the ridgehugging Torre dello Ziro(ask a local how to find the trail to this tower).You'll be rewardedwith a spectacular view.
HIKE # 2:ATRANI
For an easier stroll,head to the nnearby town of Atrani.This village,just a 15-minute stroll beyond Amalfi town,is a world apart;its 1,500 residents consider themselves definitely not from Amalfi.Leave Amalfi via the main road and stay on the water side until the promenade ends.Cross the street ,continue a few more yards,then go up the whitewashed staircase just past the pizzeria.From here,twist up trough old lanes to a paved route that takes you over the hill and drops you into Atrani in about 15 minutes.
With relatively few tourist,a delightful town square ,and a free,sandy beach (if you drive here ,pay for parking at harbor).
Atrani has none of Amalfi trendy resort feel.Piazza Umberto is the core of town,with cafes,restaurants,and littele grocery stores that can make sandwiches.A whitewashed staircase leads up to the serene and beautiful town church ( under the clock face ).
To save time and sweat on the return walk ,follow the promenade just above water level toward Amalfi.
Then walk up trought the restaurant terrace and find the big,long tunnel next to the parking garage -this will deposit you in the middle f Amalfi.From Atrani ,you could theoretically continue up to Ravello .But be warned.Unless you're part mountain goat,you'ii probably perfect catching the bus to Ravello from Amalfi town indstead
